Route 66 – Irina’s Journal
Today is Saturday, day 3 of the trip
Driving from Vegas to Grand Canyon.
Just before the entrance to the historical 66 lightning started and shortly after a strong rain. The amazing thing was a rainbow – throughout the whole sky, just above the highway, from one mountain to another… And the sky around it – light gold on the left and pastel pink on the right… We stopped the car and took some pictures. It was so spectacular, that the side of the highway started to be filled up with cars. One by one people pulled off, got out of their cars and took pictures or just stood and watched the sky…
Shortly after it started getting dark; it’s amazing how early it gets dark around here. The dusk starts around 6 pm and in the beginning you think it’s just because of the heavy clouds, because the sky between them is really light. You just remove your sunglasses and keep them on your head ready to put back any minute. But by 6.30 pm you suddenly realize that your headlight went on and you see the stars. Then you ask yourself a questing how come stars are so bright just to be hit by a sudden realization that they are bright and sharp on the absolutely black desert sky!
The back mirrors become completely useless – it’s so dark and you so completely alone as far as you can see and you are even wondering sometimes if you actually have any mirrors at all!
For miles and miles there was nothing but darkness and the road in front of you, as far as your headlights are slicing it from the desert. According to the guide the nice place for a dinner and a room would we in Truxstone, except that GPS had no idea where it is. Which was ok, such as it was supposed to be along the road just 10 miles after Valentino. We haven t really noticed Valentino as such, but there was a road sign with the name, which was good enough as an indicator.
So, right 10 miles further, as promised, there was a place called “frontier cafe” indeed, with its famous pies. Great place indeed! You really have the feeling you are back into the far west, small simple pub house on the left, low and friendly looking motel houses on the right, quietness and peaceful, just a lonely cat walking on her own business and paying you a short busy look and a couple of crickets somewhere in the dark… That and the fact that the place was closed… Until Monday. It is open every day from 8 am till 8 pm, except… Saturday, when it closes at 2 pm. And Sunday, when it’s just closed. This messed our plans a bit such as it was in fact the last place mentioned in the guide for miles to come. Miles in the total dark. In the desert. Well, there was another one in the old Indian village further away, but not very clear where. We didn’t have much choice but to hope to find it…
JC took over the driving and we continued the trip. For like about 5 minutes. Then there was a dog, in the middle of the street sniffing on something, far away in front; then a bit closer; then not that far at all! I know JC hates it when I do it, but I screamed anyway. Apparently just in time, because he didn’t see it. He just got a couple of meters to deviate to the left and he managed to avoid it. The dog didn’t look very concerned at all. JC was, and pulled aside. Then the car behind us stopped as well. I was worried that they hit the dog and damaged their car, so we went to check if they were fine. Maybe a bit stupid, I realized walking to that car in the desert, blinded by its front lights and having no idea who will great me there, in what mood, and does he have a gun? Trying to look friendly and natural and keeping my hands where they can see them I approached the driver’s window and said “hi, folks, are you ok?” and a silent “please don’t shoot me!” the window went down and a scared old Indian lady looked at me with eyes filled with fear and cried “I am so scared, what was it?” I explained it was just a dog, they obviously didn’t hit it and it was all right. The Indian guy went to look for a dog, didn’t find it and scared the lady even more because the place was full with police and they would ask questions. Have no idea why? In any case, we tried to calm her and two other ladies down and wished them safe ride.
Strange night! Desert, stars, black dog on the road, and a car full of native Americans. It felt like weird Castaneda story.
Anyhow, we found next hotel, had great meal, checked in a nice room, I just took a nice hot shower and am going to sleep. The place is Indian, of course with a marble bathroom and a high speed Wi-Fi connection. But no alcohol served and no GSM reception. Strange place Arizona! I love it!